Armenia’s Silk Road: From Monasteries to an Abandoned House

Hitchhiking Armenia’s Silk Road
Part Four

Prologue: How it all started
Part One // Part Two // Part Three

As we leave the Akhtala monastery and walk back to the main road, a driver named Robert offers us a lift on an old green Soviet “Lada” for a few kilometers and drops us off on the highway. He questions us of our trip, and gives us a big smile before driving back to the town. We wander around the railway, taking photographs of a rusty cable car hanging above us, and then walk along the road. We are now headed for the town of Haghpat to visit its famous 10th century monastery – one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites in Armenia. A ride with three guys gets us to the Haghpat intersection. We take a rest under a tall tree, and just as I take out Emée’s little travel guitar to play a song or two, a minivan stops by us. “To Haghpat? Sure! Get in,” says the driver. An old woman on the front sit, who turns out to be his mother, greets us.

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Akhtala Monastery, Armenia

Currently inactive, the 10th-century fortified monastery of Akhtala, located about 180 km north of Yerevan in the town of Akhtala in the Lori province of Armenia, is often not visited by travelers, who come to the region for the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Haghpat and Sanahin monasteries. Frankly speaking, I myself, though I passed by the town of Akhtala many a time on my way to Georgia and back, never actually visited the monastery, and our hitchhiking trip along the Silk Road of Armenia was a good excuse to finally make up for this lack. And so on the morning of November 15th, me and my travel companion from France, Emée, arrived in the town of Akhtala and were dropped off at an intersection, from where one could see the monastic compound in all of its grandeur.

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Armenia’s Silk Road: The Morning, The Coffee and The Fortress

Hitchhiking Armenia’s Silk Road
Part Three

Prologue: How it all started
Armenia’s Silk Road: Part One
Armenia’s Silk Road: Part Two

As I opened my eyes, my hand went for the mobile phone; I wished to know what time it was, if there any time exists at all, which it certainly did that morning. It was 7.30 AM, and the room where we greeted the new day was dark. My consciousness tried hard to identify the place where I was, and it came to me slowly, out of the mist caused by the amount of alcohol consumed during the dinner at Mher’s house, whose family offered as a shelter for the first night of our hitchhiking trip along the Silk Road of Armenia. We were in Berdavan.

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Armenia’s Silk Road: The Family and The Night in Berdavan

Hitchhiking Armenia’s Silk Road
Part Two

Prologue: How it all started
Armenia’s Silk Road: Part One

After starting off on the wrong road, we were now stuck in the middle of the town of Berdavan in Tavush province of Armenia, not really knowing what to do and where to go. It was dark, and according to what locals said, it wasn’t that safe to be out at night, because there were hungry wolves and jackals roaming around in search of food and it appeared to them that both me and Emée were tasty dinner candidates. Surely, that wasn’t the fate we were up for. And although there was a chance for us to spend the night in a tent somewhere under trees, I knew, well, I felt, the Road had prepared something better for us.

~photo by Emée~

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On The Road: Armenia Vol. 2

On The Road: Armenia Vol. 1

That long and winding Road that leads you to….are there really destinations that we are up for? Is it about where we are going or about the going itself? Surely, we need a destination, a place where we put down our backpacks and rest our heads on soft pillows, but we always know that the Road is there, we hear it calling us back. And here we are on the Road again. And with each step we are closer to new worlds, passing through the current ones and leaving the old ones behind. Road is Life.

On the Road to Artik. Sirak province of Armenia.

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